Saturday, 26 January 2019

James Joint

And because it seemed a bit much travelling all the way to Glasgow for the sake of 39 seconds, we decided to use the rest of the day to celebrate Tiger's birthday with free Historic Scotland sightseeing a fun family day out.  Or at least that's what I was calling it!

The ruins of Linlithgow Palace, 15 miles west of Edinburgh on the road to Stirling, was one of the principal residences of the monarch of Scotland in the 15th and 16th centuries.  The luxurious loch side palace was a peaceful retreat for Scotland's kings and queens and was a tranquil escape from politics (and occasionally the plague) while still close enough for receiving news. Although maintained after Scotland's monarchs left for England in 1603, the palace was little used and was burned out in 1746 by the Duke of Cumberland's army.

From L to R: The Order of the Garter, Order
of the Thistle, Order of the Golden Fleece and
Order of St Michael

Stepping through the above 'fore entrance' in the 1500s represented passing from the ordinary, everyday world into the elevated environment of the Stewart royal court.  This gate was built for James V in 1536 to create a more impressive entrance to the palace than the one in the photo below.  He belonged to four European chivalric orders and proudly displayed his membership in the armorials above the arch outside.


The palace grew up gradually over several generations.  Surviving paperwork provides clues, but it is not certain which of the Stewart monarchs commissioned which parts of the palace.  James I, James III, James IV and James V, all added significant structures.



James V, who was born in the palace in April 1512 - which coincided with Easter and led to lavish celebrations - added the outer gateway and the elaborate courtyard fountain that can be seen above and below.

The fountain, burbling with water (and occasionally wine) also
flowed with powerful symbolism.

The palace is famous as the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots in 1542, daughter of James V.  She spent the five seven months of her life in these rooms, including the one below, protected by her mother, Mary of Guise.  Custody of the little queen meant power, and a 'sure guard' of senior nobles stopped them leaving the palace.

This room still has its 16th-century floor tiles, decorated with
green-glazed lozenges.

Looking out the North Range on to Linlithgow Loch

Climbing up the stairs to Queen Margaret's
Bower, in the North West corner of the palace.
Margaret Tudor was Henry VIII's younger sister
and married to James IV



Looking south from the bower towards the Church of St Michael



The Great Hall below was built by James I (1406-37) and was used for grand celebrations and gatherings.  James IV's Easter feast of 1512 also marked the birth of his son, the future James V.  As an adult, James V feasted here too, including Christmas festivities in the winter of 1539-40 when his own queen, Mary of Guise, was pregnant with their first child.

The Great Hall is sometimes also known as Parliament Hall, because James IV held a meeting of Parliament here in 1585 to avoid a plague that has struck Edinburgh.  The Honours of Scotland (crown, sword and sceptre) were brought for the occasion.


Looking south from the palace chapel

Looking towards Queen Margaret's bower

The palace really is huge and in a glorious setting, and were it not for the mingin' weather today we'd have spent a good few more hours running around on the grass, walking around the loch and picnicking outside.  We also discovered it was used as a stand in for the entrance and corridors of Wentworth Prison in Outlander, so that was a bonus!





Anyway, seeing as we were already sodden wet but still had an hour to kill before heading to Perth for some birthday carvery with LambClan, we decided to make another stop at nearby Blackness Castle.

Blackness Castle has stood guard over the First of Forth for more than 500 years.  From the seaward side it looks like a ship, stranded on the rocky shore, its towers resembling the stem, stern and mast and as a result has often been nicknamed "the ship that never sailed".


Originally a tower house inside a curtain wall, the castle has been significantly altered over time with strengthened walls and the addition of extra defences.  The buildings outside the walls were built in the 1870s to create officer's quarters - support for the castle's new role as an ammunition depot.


Looking over to the three Forth bridges

It was still raining so we didn't dither long outside... just long enough to walk around the walls and admire the (yes, another) Outlander view:



This time the stand in for Fort William and the infamous scene of Jamie's flogging.  I tell you, I'm finding all this pretty cool... and wondering if the production company struck a deal with Historic Scotland!




And then, though it was only half past three, it was finally time to take off our sodden shoes and drive up to Perth for a much needed dinner.  Beef, turkey, pork or gammon anyone?   Ice cream or cake?  We'll have it ALL!!!

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