Hope & Ruin

Dunstaffnage Castle, on a promontory at the south-west of the entrance to Loch Etive between Oban and Tralee, looks exactly what a schoolkid's drawing of a castle should be - square and massive, with towers at the corners, perched on top of a rocky outcrop and surrounded by the sea.  It was the first of many free castles and historic sights of the holidays, courtesy of our Historic Scotland membership (which I'm loving).

The castle dates back to the 13th century, making it one of Scotland's oldest stone castle.  Guarding a strategic location, it was built by Duncan MacDougall Lord of Lorn, who also built Ardchattan Priory  which we visited across the loch.  

Following the repulse of the Norse influence in Argyll, the MacDougalls backed the Scottish monarchy.  However, during the Wars of Independence they fought on the Balliol side and Robert Bruce defeated the Clan MacDougall, taking control of Dunstaffnage Castle.  Now a crown property Dunstaffnage was controlled by a series of keepers, and in 1470 James III granted the castle to Colin Campbell, 1st Earl of Argyll.  The Earls of Argyll appointed Captains to oversee the castle and keep it in readiness on their behalf.  It saw much action over the centuries, and during the Jacobite risings of 1715 and 1745, Dunstaffnage was occupied by government troops.  Flora MacDonald, who helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape from Scotland, was briefly imprisoned here while en route to imprisonment in London

The well in the middle of the castle yard

Kitchen at the bottom of a 3-storey tower

The prefix dun in the name means "fort" in Gaelic, while the rest of the name derives from the Norse stafr-nis "headland of the staff".

A ruined 13th century chapel lies around 150m to the south west of the castle in the woods. This was also built by Duncan MacDougall of Lorn, as a private chapel, and features detailed stonework of outstanding quality.  The chapel was already ruinous in 1740 when a burial aisle was built on to the east end, to serve as a resting place for the Captains of Dunstaffnage and their families.

Ardchattan Priory, a Valliscaulian monastic community from Burgundy, was founded in 1230 also by Duncan MacDougall.  About 10 miles east of Dunstaffnage Castle, on the north shore of Loch Etive, it has spectacular views over the loch, looking east to Ben Cruachan and west to the hills of Mull.