La Isla Bonita

Much to the kids delight we hopped on a (very early) ferry this morning to the Isle of Mull.

From the rugged ridges of Ben More and the black basalt crags of the Burg, to the blinding white sand, rose-pink granite and emerald waters that fringe the Ross, Mull can lay claim to some of the finest and most varied scenery in the Inner Hebrides.  Or so we read.  Through constantly sweeping wiper blades everything pretty much just looks wet and green and empty.

Once off the ferry in Craignure we headed straight to the emerald teardrop of Mull's western shore: the enchanting, idyllic Iona; holy island and burial ground of kings; a magical place, even when you embark on the ferry in the pouring rain (which of course you will highly doubt from the following pictures)...

St Columba sailed from Ireland and landed on Iona in 563 with 12 monks - a number symbolic of Christ's 12 disciples - establishing a monastic community with the aim of Christianising Scotland.  It was here that the Book of Kells - the prize attraction of Dublin's Trinity College - is believed to have been transcribed.  It was taken to Ireland for safekeeping from the 9th-century viking raids.

In 1200 Iona's ruler and patrol, Ranald, made a bold move, re-founding the abbey as a Benedictine monastery with new buildings and European practices.  A son of the mighty sea lord, Somerled, Ranald had inherited his father's control of this area.  The MacDonald descendants continued to dominate this region, later becoming 'Lords of the Isles', and as powerful benefactors, they had a family burial chapel in the abbey cemetery.  The monastery prospered until its destruction during the Reformation.  The ruins were given to the Church of Scotland in 1899, and by 1910 a group of enthusiasts called the Iona Community Council had reconstructed the abbey.

Iona is known as a 'thin place' - a fine veil separating Heaven and Earth.

This rocky knoll is known as Torr an Aba or Hill of the Abbott.
St Columba's writing hut is believed to have stood on its summit.

Street of the Dead
This cobbled section of road is thought to be
over 1,000 years old.  It links the abbey with the
Reilig Odhrain burial ground and the landing
point at Martyr's Bay beyond.

Reconstructed St John's Cross
One of many high crosses which were a focus
for prayer on the pilgrammage route to
St Columba's shrine.

The knave

Stained glass of Saint Columba

George Douglas
VIII Duke of Argyll and benefactor

In the heart of the abbey complex, monastic life revolved around the cloister.  It linked the church with the rest of the buildings and its covered walkways provided a quiet place for contemplation.

The new museum at the back of the abbey displays fabulous carved high crosses and other inscribed stones, along with lots of background information.

Original St John's Cross

More than 30 years after his arrival on Iona, St Columba died in the abbey church. His monks wrapped his body in linen and lowered it into a simple grave.  In time a shrine chapel was built on that sacred spot and the presence of Columba's remains began drawing pilgrims to the island.

As old as the abbey itself, Reilag Odhrain (St Oran's Chapel) is Iona's main burial ground - the final resting place of abbots, monks, great lords and warriors.  Tradition says it is also the burial place of 48 of Scotland's early kings, including Macbeth.

Traditionally a cousin of Columba, St Oran is said to have martyred himself, offering to be buried alive to sanctify this cemetery.  Pilgrims probably paused here to pray to St Oran on their way to the abbey and Columba's shrine.

A ruined nunnery was established at the same time as the Benedictine Abbey.  This was the realm of Iona's religious women, where a community of nuns worshipped in a strict round of services and private prayers.  Founded around 1200, the convent flourished for more than 350 years.

Many nuns came from noble families but the convent also provided a refuge for unmarried daughters, widows, illegitimate girls and estranged wives.  Far from leading lives of poverty and seclusion, these women had daily contact with the outside world.  They supported themselves, financially, living off income from nunnery lands on Iona and beyond.  Until the 1600s, the south shore of Mull's Loch na Keal was known as 'Leirnacalloch' meaning, 'hillside of the nuns'.

As the sun continued to shine we chose the 'tourist route' back to the east coast, before heading up to Mull's 'capital'. 

Can you guess where?!?

After a few more drams, an ice-cream and a good look around, it was time scarp it back to the ferry and a fish-supper in a sunnier Oban for tea.